Sept. 3, 2015
Updated Sept. 6, 2015 8:28 a.m.
Marla Jo Fisher and her traveling companions have breakfast at the Hotel Oasis in Loreto, Baja California Sur, Mexico. There are American chains in Mexico, but locally owned hotels and guesthouses are cheaper.MARLA JO FISHER, STAFF BY MARLA JO FISHER / STAFF COLUMNISTMexico remains one of my favorite vacation destinations, even though the country has issues that can’t be ignored.
I love the people, who tend to be generous, warm-hearted and friendly to Americans, especially if you try to speak even a dollop of your high school Spanish.
I also love, love, love that exchange rate, which fluctuates these days between 12 and 13 pesos to the dollar. That adds up to major savings compared with other vacation spots.
I also like the varied regional cuisines, beautiful scenery, fabulous beaches, Mayan and colonial architecture, ornate churches and the marvelous arts and crafts.
But what about those problems?
Just know this: Mexico’s a huge country with 124 million people. I’m not trying to talk you into going there if you feel queasy about it. But, personally, I don’t automatically write off an entire nation because of violence in some areas. And I have friends who live there quite happily.
If you’re headed to Mexico, here are money matters to know when you get there:
1. Don’t be confused by the currency: Both the U.S. dollar and the Mexican peso use the “$” symbol, which can lead to major confusion. I saw a message once from a European tourist wondering why the famous Copper Canyon train trip one way cost a whopping $1,200 dollars – when it really only cost $100. Just use common sense. If it seems way too expensive, then you’re likely seeing the price in pesos.
2. Stay local: Look for smaller, Mexican-owned hotels and guesthouses. Yes, there are big chain hotels there, both American- and Mexican-owned, but I don’t go to Mexico to experience corporate culture. You’ll save money and support the local economy, too, by staying local.
Try Booking.com, a reservation service that specializes in smaller hotels and guesthouses, and see what pops up for the city you’re visiting. Or check TripAdvisor.com. A few owner-operated places that I like, off the top of my head: Hotel Oasis in Loreto, Las Golondrinas in Oaxaca and the Rio Vista in El Fuerte – the starting point for the Chepe train through Copper Canyon.
3. Know the cab fare: Before getting into a taxi-cab, always negotiate the price in advance. Most don’t have meters. Don’t forget this. Taxis are affordable in Mexico, but if you don’t ask the price, there’s a decent chance you’ll get gouged at the end of the ride. Most airports avoid this by having you buy a taxi ticket into town for a set fare.
4. Hire a driver: If I don’t know the area, I prefer this to renting a car and getting lost, due to generally poor signage on the roads. You can ask at your hotel, and they’ll find you one who speaks English, but expect that the driver will have to give them a cut. Or go to a taxi stand and talk to drivers there about what you need and where you want to go. Sometimes they can be a real blessing, like the driver we had in Oaxaca who knew where we could get a wooden crate built on the spot to bring our ceramic purchases back home safely.
5. Take a bus: Mexican buses are government subsidized, surprisingly cheap and enjoyable, especially the executive and first-class lines. I don’t recommend the local buses for any distance unless you want a chicken on your lap. But long-distance luxury travel lets you see the country and avoid the airport and is quite comfortable. Some seats even spread out nearly flat to help you sleep. If you’re on a double-decker bus, go upstairs and have a better view of the countryside. I’ve been on buses that even had hostesses who served snacks and Pepsi in little cups. Many have videos and coffee machines.
Note that smaller towns have a different depot for each type of bus, though they are more centralized in larger cities. Ask a local for help, or read your Lonely Planet guide. Also note that bus routes sell out over the Christmas holidays and Semana Santa – before and after Easter – so reserve in advance.
Some luxury lines now have websites where you can purchase tickets in advance – though you may have trouble using your U.S. credit card – and also have private waiting rooms in the larger terminals, exclusively for first-class customers. If you’re buying in person, ask to see the “mapa de asientos” seating chart and pick a seat in the middle or toward the front.
A few of the numerous popular luxury bus lines: ETN, Cristobal Colon, Estrella de Oro, ADO, Primera Plus. Try ETN’s website atEtn.com.mx/english or www.reserbus.mx.
6. Don’t be afraid to haggle with vendors. Bargain for your purchases. Vendors are going to take one look at you, think, “Americano,” and double their prices. Now, there’s a valid argument that people are already operating on such low margins that if you haggle them down, you’re taking food out of their kids’ mouths. Whenever I suggest haggling, I get irate emails about that. But Mexicans themselves bargain when they buy.
The key to haggling is to be friendly and lighthearted. Don’t be like the Ugly American I saw once in Rosarito who just barked out prices at the shopkeeper. I could see she hated him, and she refused to lower her price, even though she’d just given me a big discount on the same lamp.
If you speak any Spanish, now’s the time to use it. Greet the vendor politely, smile and nod before you begin your transaction. “Buenos dias, señora,” goes a long way in a country where pleasantries are still important.
Note: A shop that has fixed price tags probably won’t bargain.
7. Get out of the tourist zone. If you’re vacationing in a major tourist destination such as Cancun or Cabo San Lucas, be aware that you’re paying greatly marked-up prices for everything compared to what Mexicans spend. Sometimes, if you just walk a few blocks away from the tourist zone, you can find where the Mexicans themselves shop and save yourself some significant coin on groceries, sunscreen, bottled water and such for your condo or hotel. You can also ask a cab driver to take you to the local shopping area, which probably includes a Wal-Mart.
Note: There are also Costco stores in Mexico.
8. Use pesos. Most tourist destinations in Mexico will accept your U.S. dollars, but be aware you’re paying a premium for that service. If you change your money into pesos, you can get a better deal – the value depends on whom you’re buying from. Ask restaurants to calculate your bill in pesos. “La cuenta en pesos, por favor.”
Got a good travel tip for me? Or a suggestion? Email me
at mfisher@ocregister.com.
I love to hear from readers.
Contact the writer: 714-796-7994 or mfisher@ocregister.com
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